American craft brewing legend Dogfish Head Brewery, the mad geniuses from Delaware, sold to Boston Beer, the parent company that brews Sam Adams Boston Lager among many other beers. Neither brewery should be considered a micro-brewery, but neither is a macro-brewery. They both exist in some kind of middle ground. Being in that middle ground may mean death or consolidation going forward.
Apparently, the top 50 craft brewers are having trouble with many posting severe year-over-year declines. These are the craft brewers that I would define as “middle craft.” The challenge for these breweries is giving you the beer drinker a reason to try them over, say, a handful of hyper local breweries that may only sell products from their own taproom or a few commercial accounts.
In the past—okay, the 1990s—middle craft was the place to be as beer drinkers sought out different beers and the quality control at a lot of craft breweries was just bad. I cannot tell you how many small breweries were making beer that would make most semi-skilled home brewers spit out their stout. You sought out a New Belgium Fat Tire or Boulevard Wheat because those were well made beers from breweries you trusted. You knew you were not going to waste $8 on a six pack. Heck, you might even pick up something a little unusual from the same brewery when you were in the mood for a change.
That dynamic is long gone. Award winning breweries are scattered across this nation. Between Cedar Rapids and Iowa City I can patronize a half dozen breweries putting out good and sometimes great beer. Those same breweries have won medals at prestigious beer festivals and have reputations well beyond the borders of the state. Expanding my field of view to the entire state opens up a whole host of small, innovative, and well regarded breweries making all sorts of different beers. If you do not believe me just spend a minute perusing the tap list at the Iowa Taproom in Des Moines.
All things being equal, why would I buy a New Belgium Citradelic over a Lion Bridge Brewing Tag? Or, why would I buy a Dale’s Pale Ale over a Big Grover Brewery Arms Race? I like all four of the aforementioned beers. I choose to buy the local products almost every time.
This is the reality for the beer business in 2019.
Posted in Beer, Uncategorized
Tagged AB-InBev, Arms Race, beer, Big Grove Brewery, Boston Beer, Citradelic, craft, Dale’s Pale Ale, Des Moines, Dogfish Head Brewery, Iowa, Iowa Taproom, IPA, Lion Bridge Brewing Company, macro, New Belgium Brewery, Oskar Blues, publicly traded, Sam Adams, small business, Tag
Beer from New Belgium Brewery in Fort Collins, Colorado used to be like a revelation. A twelve pack of Fat Tire Amber Ale was treated like a gift when someone was thoughtful enough to bring some back from the Front Range. Times have changed and I have not been impressed with their recent exploits. Nonetheless, nostalgia will get me from time to time and I picked up a six pack of the recently released Long Table Farmhouse Ale:
This a beer that drinks boozy (6.2% ABV) with little bitterness (20 IBU) or body to balance it out. When I think of “farmhouse ale” or a saison I am generally thinking that it will be a lower alcohol beer that is easy drinking. Think light beer with soul.
Long Table has none of that soul. With a small amount of bitterness and no dry hopping there is little hop aroma or flavor. With nothing hitting your nose or tongue your palate is left to deal with a thin beer hitting you in the face with alcohol and esters. There are a lot of peppery notes in this beer, but it comes across like someone just cracked a peppermill over the bottle before packaging.
Long Table tastes like it is a derivative of other similar New Belgium beers. The plan out of Fort Collins seems to read like Hollywood’s—reboots and sequels. When is the reality of what New Belgium is brewing—thin variations on a theme—going to overcome the perception of the brewery—pioneering spirit of American craft industry, environmentally friendly, socially conscious, employee owned, etc.? With breweries in two states and a near total coverage of the continental United States it feels like New Belgium is brewing and marketing toward the middle ground where it is offering little different from the craft labels owned by the macro brewing giants.
If you are an aficionado of thin, boozy beers with little else to tickle your palate crack open a Long Table:
See what others are saying about New Belgium Long Table Farmhouse Ale at Beeradvocate.
Posted in Beer
Tagged ABV, ale, beer, Chinook, Colorado, craft, Fort Collins, hops, IBU, Long Table Farmhouse Ale, malt, Nelson Sauvin, New Belgium Brewery, Target, yeast
When you cut back on drinking beer you begin to curate your selection a little bit more because each bottle seems like part of a zero sum game. I did not give up drinking so much as curtail it down to a few bottles per week. Moderation if ever there was such a thing.
If there is one trend that has made it easier for me to stop brewing my own beer—never mind the entire drinking a lot less beer—has been the emergence of “session” IPAs. The adjective session has lost a lot of meaning in the past couple of years, which is no surprise given the wide ranging style differences that can occur under previously well understood definitions like IPA or stout.
New Belgium Brewery recently came out with Slow Ride IPA. It was debuted at Winter Park in January and made its national appearance soon after. BTW, New Belgium is now the official craft brewer for Winter Park. I think once craft breweries start becoming the “official brewery” of anything it means they are not really craft in the manner that many of us think.
Slow Ride is definitely a lighter IPA coming in at 4.5% ABV and 40 IBU:
Slow Ride uses Mosaic, a well known hop variety, and Nelson Sauvin, which I had never heard of until visiting New Belgium’s website. It’s a hop grown in New Zealand. A lot of the descriptors sound like “Sideways” wine guy words, but it seems like the main current of description is that it is a fruity hop that imparts white wine like notes. Okay, I’ll bite but it seemed like a pretty standard dry hop profile to me when I drank a couple of bottles. Call me unsophisticated. It won’t hurt my feelings.
Slow RIde comes close to the golden ratio of 1:1 ABV to IBU that I have been fiddling with for a while now. If your beer is 4.5% ABV it should be 45 IBU. It seems to hold true that beers like this are very balanced if the body of the beer can hold up its end of the bargain.
This is where I feel like New Belgium beers have really been falling down lately. The body of the beers has been lacking. You could say the beers are thin, but for a product that is mostly water even in the thickest instances it is not really the most appropriate descriptor. What is lacking is interest. Some beers have it, even if the alcohol and bitterness are not at stratospheric levels, and a lot of other beers do not. This is where true brewing talent shines.
Overall, this is a solid effort and if you want something easy to drink on a warm day that actually tastes like beer grab a pint of Slow Ride:
Posted in Beer
Tagged beer, Colorado, dry hop, Fort Collins, hops, India Pale Ale, IPA, Mosaic, Nelson Sauvin, New Belgium Brewery, New Zealand, session, skiing, Slow Ride, Winter Park
It was Memorial Day and I was looking for a beer in a compliant container. I needed beer in cans to satisfy The Man and his desire for safety. Okay, I think that if people are going to be drinking in a public place, like a park, it is a good idea to drink from cans so that no one ends up taking a spill onto some broken glass.
Unfortunately, my go-to canned beer—Founders Brewing’s All Day IPA—was out of stock. Sucked back into the unenviable position of choosing amongst the masses of options my hand fell onto a twelve pack of New Belgium Brewery’s Ranger IPA.
Making its debut in bottles in the first part of 2010, Ranger IPA was part of a wave of beers that started to increase the hop content in somewhat more mass market beers. Prior to this time a lot of hoppier beers were reserved for taprooms and more localized markets.
Several years later, how does Ranger IPA hold up:
This beer does not drink as bitter as its 70 IBU rating would suggest. Chinook hops are a smooth addition to any beer and seem capable of imparting a resinous bitterness without overpowering every other flavor. One of my favorite extract recipes from Northern Brewer is the Chinook IPA, which is a single hop beer showcasing that particular variety. In fact, I have a keg of Chinook IPA that should be ready to serve in the first week of June or so.
Ranger IPA is also dry-hopped which leads to a burst of aroma when your nose first hits the glass. With the very resinous notes of Cascade hops you expect a more bitter punch from the beer, but because dry hopping does not contribute to the bitterness it is just not there. It’s kind of a trick that is common to many dry hopped beers. I used to think this was a gimmick, but I have come over to the side of dry hopping and believe that it allows for another layer of complexity in the beer without going down the tastes/smells like a headshop route. No one wants to think they are drinking bong water.
If you can overlook the campy Beer Ranger marketing ploy give it a try. It’s a very good exemplar of a modern American version of an IPA.
Recently I have been pretty harsh on the beers coming out of New Belgium Brewery, e.g. Snapshot or Spring Blonde, but Ranger IPA is somewhat of a redemptive beer for the brewery. It shows that a properly focused beer can come out of a rapidly expanding brewery with national distribution intent.
Posted in Beer
Tagged ABV, All Day IPA, Cascade, Chinook, Colorado, dry hop, Fort Collins, hops, IBU, India Pale Ale, IPA, New Belgium Brewery, Ranger IPA, Simcoe
The downside to my adventures in kegging homebrew is that my rookie mistakes and general procrastination have forced me to wander the coolers full of six packs of craft beer aimlessly wondering why one beer would be better than another.
Recently, I was disappointed with New Belgium’s Spring Blonde but the beer I was looking for originally finally showed up on the shores of Iowa. I picked up a six pack of Snapshot and got around to pouring a glass:
Is this beer really this light or is it just my camera? Yep, it’s as light as pale straw or drought stricken grass in eastern Colorado.
The light color of the beer should have been an indicator of what was to come, but I was hoping for a revelation. Instead I got a thin beer with almost no punch of flavor. It is supposed to have Cascade hops providing bitterness and aroma, but there was almost no traditional beer bitterness. The official description notes how Snapshot is supposed to use some of the same yeast/bacteria utilized in their sour beer program to provide a punch. Sorry, I tasted none of that.
The beer just tastes flat, not in terms of carbonation, but flavor. I used to take for granted that New Belgium Brewery was going to produce excellent craft beers that I would enjoy drinking. However, the beers coming from its tanks recently come across as derivative and uninspired. It’s an expensive alternative to your traditional American macro brews:
Next to Snapshot was another decal noting a new arrival, Samuel Adams Cold Snap:
This is an interesting beer. The stated bitterness (7 IBU) is so low as to be non-existent, but the inclusion of a host of other spices–orange peel, plum, hibiscus and fresh ground coriander according to the beer’s website—provide a flavor that compensates for a lack of traditional beer bittering.
With a name like Cold Snap I was expecting more of a winter beer with heavier malts or more bitterness, but Cold Snap is like a great lawnmower beer. It drinks light without being watery—yes I am looking at you Snapshot—and it has enough flavor to be interesting without overpowering your mouth.
About the worst thing I could say about Cold Snap is that it would be a beer that you would get bored with fairly quickly, but maybe that is why Samuel Adams decided to make it part of the seasonal rotation. Nonetheless, it’s got potential:
Posted in Beer
Tagged beer, Boston Beer Company, Cascade, Cold Snap, coriander, fresh ground coriander, Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble, hibiscus, hops, Jim Koch, New Belgium Brewery, orange peel, plum, Samuel Adams, Snapshot, Spring Blonde